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  FIGHTING BIGGER WAVES
Thursday 18th October 2007 at 10:35:49 PM  

rowl_n_surf
Wave Rider
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Did you ever fear paddling into bigger waves? I mean, how do you go oever them? I'm a pretty strong paddler and never really had a problem when paddling out during the big days! But when it comes to taking off on any wave over 4ft, i tremble! Up to 4ft is actually alright, i shake, yes, but still okay..

and this problem of mine gets even worse when the waves break into shallow parts. i went to a local reef recently & the waves were about 4ft and they break in about shoulder deep water. and i can't go over & closer to them.
 
Monday 22nd October 2007 at 10:45:07 PM  

surfboi
Wave Rider
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The biggest shock of paddling for bigger surfing wave is when before you pop up, you look down and see that drop. You have no other choice but to go on the wall and pop up. As soon as you do, the wave becomes smaller. If the reef is shoulder deep, like 4ft high, then there isn't really much chance for you to hurt yourself.
 
Monday 22nd October 2007 at 10:51:08 PM  

eveboard
Wave Rider
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Charging a big surfing wave is all about setting your fears aside ** It won't mean you don't have to be afraid because i also get a little nervous in big wave surfing.. but i just forget the fear go for it! **

The wave selection is also crucial. Most surfing wipeouts happen because of poor wave selection and because you're not committing to a wave properly. If you paddle for a wave, dont hesitate & just take off! Look straight at the wave as you paddle for it. Only you can tell if its going out by just looking at it. It may take a while, but you should practice looking at them and watch how they do it.
 
Tuesday 23rd October 2007 at 12:03:40 AM  

jadedson
Wave Rider
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Wave selection matters regardless of the size of the surfing wave. Obviously it plays a crucial role since you really dont want to be paddling into a 6ft+ wave that is about to close down, ryt? It is also very important in identifying the best rides..if your wave knowledge is good, then you will select waves that will give you the best ride.

You cant really teach someone wave selection because it comes from lots and lots of experience, water time, and tons of surfing wipeouts! You can only practice your wave selection in smaller waves first, then translate that knowledge into bigger stuff. Start reading the waves rather than trying any tricks! After several surfing wipeouts & mistakes, analyze what happened & why the wave was so difficult to ride on, just like how you do with the good rides you get. Never be disappointed all the tym because every surfing wave is different...so you can't be right all the time either!
 
Tuesday 23rd October 2007 at 12:11:23 AM  

surfingsin
Wave Rider
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a shoulder-high wave is quite deep! and most likely, you won't hit the bottom.. i once surfed a reef that can get so shallow down to 2-3ft deep. and you can really hit the bottom on a surfing wipeout. that's why it's still best to stick with the beach breaks when surfing, it will help you gain more confidence.

as for the surfing wipeouts, normally, they don't always hurt that MUCH! you might get pretty wounded sometimes...but you'll only end up laughing after that get more experience & TAKE IT EASY. but when you commit to a wave, do not hesitate & go for it :) every now and then, you need to cross the line
 
Tuesday 23rd October 2007 at 12:27:31 AM  

rowl_n_surf
Wave Rider
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thanks for all the replies! anyway, i keep freezing whenvre it's tough & i charge my head on.. alright, then maybe i should just toughen myself some more haha

i appreciate all your help. so maybe i'll just go fir it? anyway, ive been told that after surviving a shoulder-high wave, i will no longer want to surf anything smaller than that!

 
Thursday 17th January 2008 at 11:09:42 PM  

Otter
Weekender
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Here's the reality. When you started surfing, you were happy with 2', or 3' waves? Now your challenging a 4' wave, unknown territory, bigger than before. It's totally normal to be a bit intimidated. Now the reality. Pretty soon, when it's 4' waves, you'll be wishing they were 5'. When you've gotten comfortable with the 5', you'll want the 6'. Obviously this doesn't go on ad infinitum, per Dirty Harry "A man's got to know his limitations."

Agreed with the wise posters who through experience have learned to appreciate the art and science of wave reading. Good advice given there. Learn your break. If you're on a beach break, watch out for close out waves. If you're on a reef break, learn where the rocks are closest to the surface, and which you need to be wary of.

A bad day surfing is better than a good day working

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