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so i'm riding a fairly large board. i paddle hard enough and wit proper timing. i also know that u need to speed up to get into the waves or else, u can possibly nose dive. and im having a problem wit it. i dont understand, is it only a matter of strength?
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You need to be in the right place. If you paddle too early and too fast, you will be catching the wave as it breaks on you. The end result? You'll be dumped and you'll fall. Don't think that you have to steam along when the wave catches you. If you look at the pros, it's more on positioning yourself properly, so you only have to paddle a few times before you get up. If you see that the wave is about to break, you still get a couple of seconds where the lip is just starting to form. And this is the time when you should be paddling; then get up quickly and stay low.
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The key factors? Position. Paddle. Timing. Speed.
Go straight to your feet and never paddle with your knees. I saw many beginners doing that. Simply swing your feet to continue your forward motion. Never short stroke it.
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Otter
Weekender
Posts 44
Points 51
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Like Big Z says... "Long, smooth strokes..."
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A bad day surfing is better than a good day working
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