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i was just wondering if anyone here can suggest some good exit techniques? sometimes i get lucky to spot the closeout & i can ride over the top before it even breaks.. but then, most of the beaches i know close out pretty quick once they go & then u just get stuck inside! So... got any useful or stylish way of doing it? of getting out through the wave & out to the other side? right now, i go for the leap over the whitewater & pull my board by the leash. after that, it's fine in small waves. but in big wave surfing & the water is too big to jump over, it DOES NOT work!
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When i go down the line & see the big wave coming close, i run for my life! haha and when i see it curling & launching, i get kicked out right towards the shore!
but if you're on a short board.. once the big surfing waves break, just turn back & dive under & your board will go with u. if you are on a long board, just go at the back & turn it over.
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Otter
Weekender
Posts 44
Points 51
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There are a couple of things you can do. First, learn to recognize when the wave is going to close out on you. As you're riding along, does the wave start to spit a lip? Is the wave getting steeper and looking like it's about to break? You can bet that's a good time to plan an exit strategy. If you get out before it closes, just ride your board over the green lip and behind the wave, grabbing the board and landing in the prone position so that you are immediately ready to paddle. You could try a floater, in which you surf up to the oncoming part of the close out wave, and turn your board toward the shore while sharply turning off the lip of the oncoming wave. A fly away would be where you are traveling so fast, you kick your board from the bottom of the wave through the top and go airborne. They're all lots of fun.
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A bad day surfing is better than a good day working
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