surfboi
Wave Rider
Posts 24
Points 24
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i'm riding a 9'6" board.. and during the winter when there are, like, 3-5' waves do i need to paddle at the last minute? well, the last i surfed during the winter was 5 years ago.. now do i need to paddle on my stomach or knees? should i paddle faster or do i have to start sooner than i could on a smaller wave?
most of my surfing has been on smaller waves or shoulder hoping. i understand though that i should paddle harder in big waves. but during summer, i paddle all the way in only to catch a 2' wave. what's the difference?  
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Get into the wave as early as possible. Sit out on a shortboard farther than anyone. Start paddling earlier so you can get your momentum & speed going & angle ur board into the take off!
if u sit too far in then a bigger wave comes ur way but u find urself taking a late drop, put some few power strokes in & get ready to pop-up quick because that will be ur pick up tail & the nose is gonna drop & u'll get pitched!
im not sure about knee paddling, havent tried it on a winter yet.. i've tried to ride a 9'8" board & lay down as i paddle. if you paddle all the way in to catch those 2 footers, it could be that you're going for the worng waves or you're sitting too far out the back..
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it's all about TIMING. and really, the last thing u would want to do is to paddle late & take a plunge. but u would not want to paddle too soon either since u may end up paddling too far & get a nice wave break on top of u! another factor is the type of waves there is. if they're in good shape, then u can relax.
im not also sure about knee paddling but i think a few quick powerful strokes would drive u on the wave. it also helps that u know your local break. sometimes all it takes is afew good dumps then you'll figure it out. and ud be able to jump & judge on where u should be :D
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I'm pretty sure any long boarder here will be able to give some good advice.
Just try to line up with other longboarders too and observe how the experienced ones do it. I'd say you start really really really early to catch the wave before any surfer does.
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Otter
Weekender
Posts 44
Points 51
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It basically depends on a couple of factors. The strength of the swell and where the tide is. Often if you're surfing at high tide you will need to be very late on the wave to catch it. You may have heard experienced surfers saying that there was "to much water." This means the tide is near or at high and the strength of the swell isn't sufficient to make the waves what we would like them to be. Conversely, a low tide may pick up a swell from several directions, causing havoc to the quality of the waves.
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A bad day surfing is better than a good day working
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