Surfing Skills & Techniques - Getting into the Water
After assuming the correct position of your body on the board while on the beach, you are now ready to take it on the real playground. With the correct body position, you will learn how to get into the water with your board.
- Attach your Surfboard Leash once you reach the shore.
- With your board tucked nose first under your arm, walk out into the water until it is knee-deep.
- Put your board flat beside you, with its nose a few inches from the water surface. Lift the board if there are waves coming at you.
Never ever place the board in front of you. Oncoming waves can drive the board straight at you.
- Continue to walk out into the water with the board beside you until you reach chest-deep.
- Turn the board around, its nose facing the beach.
- As a broken wave comes near you, lie on your board while holding the rails. Keep your weight centered in the middle of the board. Make sure you are not too far forward or too backward.
- Adjust your body weight as soon as the wave reaches you. Slightly shift your weight backward, and then move forward again. Just like the exercise on the beach, make sure to keep your face looking forward for balance and to see where you are going.
Positioning your body and board correctly is the foundation of other skills in Surfing such as Paddling, Duck Diving, Catching a Wave, and finally, Standing on the Surfboard. Make sure to get used to doing the correct positions of your body and board before moving on with other techniques.
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| Otter |
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Sorry boss, gotta disagree on this one. You won't know the correct position to be in until you get your board in the water. The way the board performs will be directly proportional to proper positioning on the board which can only be determined by actually using the board. If you got a pool or a lake nearby, that would work as far as getting a basic idea, but improper positioning on a board can cause either a loss of needed speed, or pearling, where the nose of the board is pushed under the water you are paddling toward.
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A bad day surfing is better than a good day working
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These are all the Surfing Lessons covered in this section:
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